Wood Grain Kitchen Cabinets with Stainless Steel Appliances from Mid Continent Cabinetry
  1. You’ll need these tools

    • carpenter’s level
    • slot and Phillips screwdrivers
    • folding rule or metal tape measure
    • claw hammer
    • 1/4″ electric drill/bits
    • carpenter’s plane
    • wood saw (for cutting fillers)
    • “C” clamps (2)
    • metal square
    • wood shims
    • #8 –21/2″ flathead wood screws (allow 4 per cabinet)

    If you’re remodeling, you’ll also need:

    • crowbar
    • patching plaster
    • sandpaper
  2. Prepare the area

    Begin your room preparation by disconnecting and removing all appliances, furnishings and accessories from the installation area. Tie up any hang-down light fixtures that might get in the way.

  3. Remove old construction

    If you are remodeling an older area, you will need to remove old woodwork. Using your crowbar and claw hammer, gently pry loose all old countertops, base cabinets, baseboards, wall cabinets, chair rails and other mouldings from wall and floor areas.

  4. Plan electrical needs

    If you’re changing the location of appliances, plan for new outlets nearby. If you’re installing kitchen cabinets, check to see if the range, oven and vented hood will require additional wiring. Plan for countertop outlets. Make notes of all electrical changes on your layout and enlist the services of a dependable electrician.

  5. Plan plumbing requirements

    Will your new kitchen have a built-in dishwasher? A refrigerator that makes its own ice cubes? Will the sink or basin be relocated? Will additional sinks or basins be added? Again, using your layout, indicate plumbing changes and have a reliable plumber rough them in now.

  6. Plan floor coverings

    This is the proper time to have the flooring prepared for cabinet installation. Consult with your flooring expert to find out whether new cabinets should be installed directly over subflooring or over the new surface. Be sure sub-flooring is installed with the proper spiral-edged flooring nails to prevent surface popping.

  7. Find the high point

    Most floors are not level. They have high and low points and sometimes these can be noted merely by looking. To be sure of your floor’s high point, lay a straight section of 24 across what you think may be the high point and butt it up against the baseboard or wall. Using a level, draw a line along the edge of the 24 onto the baseboard or wall. Continue the line around the entire room until you are certain of the high point.

  8. Measure for base cabinets

    Measure up exactly 341/2″ from the room’s high point and carefully draw a horizontal line around the room to represent the top height of your base cabinets without countertops.

  9. Measure for wall cabinets

    Measure up exactly 84″, 90″, or 96″ (depending on cabinet height ordered), from the room’s high point and draw another horizontal line to indicate the top height of the wall cabinets.

  10. Check and mark sizes and locations

    Make sure all cabinets and appliances are the size and specifications ordered. Mark the locations of all cabinets directly onto the walls. Make sure all vents, plumbing and electrical outlets are where they should be. Note: Oven cut-outs are much easier when you can lay the oven cabinet on the floor, rather than in place.

  11. Locate studs

    All cabinets must be attached securely with screws through the walls to the centers of studs. To locate studs, tap walls lightly with a hammer until you hear a sound that is not hollow. Drive in a thin nail to confirm the stud’s location. Then probe right and left to locate the exact center. Once you’ve found one on each wall, the others are easy since they are normally 16″ apart. Mark each stud’s center along wall areas where cabinets will be installed.

  12. Repair walls

    Clean out plaster cracks and holes in walls and soffits. Fill with patching plaster, sanding the surface when dry. Remove protruding nails and obvious high spots on walls.

  13. Install a corner wall cabinet

    Your cabinets should be installed working from the top down to give more working space and to make the backs of wall units more accessible. For ease of installation, remove all doors from cabinets and number them so they will be returned to the proper cabinet. To begin installation, place a corner wall cabinet with its top along your “cabinet top” horizontal line. If you are working alone, you may need to improvise a temporary support from two sections of 24. Mark the position of wall studs along the cabinet’s back exterior hanger rails, top and bottom. Pre-drill holes through cabinet back and rails and fasten loosely on the wall. If any unit covers only one stud, it must be attached along the bottom rail as well.

  14. Finish wall cabinet installations

    Working progressively from one wall cabinet to the next, continue installation. Shim the back edges of cabinets wherever the wall is uneven. Make sure all units are plumb and level and that the stiles line up with each other at the front.

  15. Attach wall cabinets

    Pull two adjoining wall units together at the stiles and, using the “C” clamps, draw the stiles securely together near the upper and lower hinges. To protect the cabinet finish, place small blocks of wood or thick cardboard between the stile and the jaws of the clamps before drawing tight. Drill two holes through one stile and part way into the other. Secure with screws, making sure that the length of screw used doesn’t exceed the combined width of the two stiles.

  16. Attach fillers

    Your cabinets are manufactured in 3″ wide increments. Use wood fillers, cut to proper length with a wood saw to fit any dimensions less than 3″. Attach fillers through stiles in the same manner as described in step 15 for attaching one unit to the next.

  17. Tighten cabinets

    After all wall cabinets have been hung in place, fastened together and aligned plumb and level, securely tighten the hanging rail screws into the studs.

  18. Label drawers

    Drawers for base units are custom fitted at the factory. Before removing from cabinets, number and mark them so they will be returned to the proper cabinet upon completion of installation.

  19. Install a base corner cabinet

    Place a base corner cabinet along the horizontal base cabinet line. Wood shims under low spots may be necessary to position the cabinet exactly level at 341/2″. Attach base cabinet to wall, following instructions for wall cabinet installation. Note: If you’re installing a lazy susan unit, attach it first to the adjoining unit(s) and install as one. Make sure the revolving apparatus functions properly before attaching joined units to wall. For peninsula installation, trace the toe kick on the floor and secure a block under the cabinet to fasten the cabinet to.

  20. Complete base cabinet installation

    Install all base cabinets according to directions given for wall cabinet installation. After all base cabinets are fastened to the wall and level front to back, fasten the stiles one to another in the manner described in Step 15. Attach fillers as described in Step 16.

  21. Stretchers

    After base cabinet installation is complete, the braces (stretchers) along the top of the base cabinet may need to be removed or cut for proper installation of sinks or cooktops. Removal of the stretcher will not decrease the structural integrity of the cabinet.

  22. Attach doors

    Attach doors to proper cabinets. Stiles are pre-drilled for ease in installation. Doors, except for cathedral doors, are reversible by turning over and attaching to the opposite cabinet stile. There is a tolerance in the hinges for proper door alignment. Doors should be adjusted level throughout the kitchen.

  23. Shelf Clips

    Insure that all shelf clips are installed so the weight of the shelf rests on the shelf support as shown. Failure to install clips properly may result in the shelf clip breaking. Check to see that shelf clips are installed in the center of the cabinet on the back wall and behind the center frame member of the cabinet.

  24. Install drawers

    Return drawers to proper unit and position. Make necessary adjustments to drawer by moving the polystyrene bracket at the rear of cabinet. Drawers should be adjusted to glide easily.

  25. Install countertops

    For a professional appearance and fit we recommend professionally constructed and installed countertops. Be sure that countertop measurements are taken after base cabinets have been installed. We also recommend countertop thickness of 11/2″,as it brings the base cabinets to a standard working height of 36″and presents a more professional look. Check with your cabinet dealer or countertop expert for a current selection of styles.

  26. Protect your cabinets right away

    As soon as your cabinets are installed, wipe all surfaces with a soft, damp cloth and dry immediately. For wood cabinetry, apply a light coat of liquid or paste wax that doesn’t contain cleaners or silicone. Rubbing gently with the grain, work the wax quickly into the surface, one small area at a time, so the wax doesn’t have a chance to set. Repeat this procedure once every six months to protect your cabinets from excess moisture and humidity. Like all fine wood furniture, surfaces may vary slightly in color and characteristics. Laminate and White cabinets should be washed periodically inside and out with a clean, damp cloth. No wax is required. For everyday care, wipe cabinet surfaces with a clean, soft cloth, adding mild soap and water only if necessary. Never use abrasives, strong detergents, chemical cleaning agents, or rags and sponges used for other chores. Wipe up all water spills promptly, as moisture is the worst enemy of your new cabinets. Repair nicks and scratches in wood cabinetry immediately with a woodtone touchup stick and a light coat of wax.

Installation instructions can be downloaded below:

Installation Instructions (pdf)

Oven Installation and Cut Out Instructions (pdf)

Floating Shelf Instructions (pdf)